It was raining a steady but soft sprinkle when we got to the foot of a never-ending brick staircase. We were in tiny but mighty Volterra, a city carved by erosion among the Balze hills, between Florence, Siena and the sea. A part of a perfect trio of hill cities located close together – Volterra, Colle Val d’Elsa and San… Read more »

I was enamored with Italy even before I saw it. Then, I saw it. From my first jet-lagged lunch in a nondescript tourist joint in Rome I knew this was a place I wanted to know. In the light, the speed, the scene, there was something to learn here. Since then I’ve traveled all over Italy… Read more »

An English woman, an Irish woman and two Midwestern Americans sat around the table, spritz’s in hand and classic Italian aperitivo snacks littering the table, each discussing the merits of their own country. The question asked by an Italian acquaintance was “do you like living in Italy?” So innocuous. So loaded. Eyes were immediately averted, smiles forcibly… Read more »

Both of these medieval Tuscan towns are perched on a hill. Both are most known for their red wines. Both are ridiculously tiny and ridiculously crowded in August. Strolling the streets there is most certainly a Duomo to visit, another church or two, maybe a famous civic building or even a small museum, but the… Read more »

One of the best ways to save money while traveling anywhere is to make your own meals. Luckily, a great way to get a feel for the local culture is visiting the town market. Go to see what’s for offer, what the prices are, what’s in season. Watch the locals to find out which stand is favored,… Read more »

Italy is known for its wine, but Italian wine is more than just Chianti. It’s more than just Tuscan vineyards. It’s more than just a house red. And though the house wine is often delicious and well-made, and though the wine is cheap and sometimes does, yes, flow like rivers, Italian wine also comes with a… Read more »

Lombardy, Italy is one of the most expensive regions in all of Europe. With about a sixth of Italy’s population producing about a fifth of Italy’s GDP, Lombardy is the most populous region in Italy and one of the richest regions in all of Europe. Yet even in expensive Lombardy, it’s possible to live very well… Read more »

It’s impossible to identify just one dish that personifies the food of Veneto. Though most only visit the region’s capital city, Venice, it actually spans from the mighty port town of Venice to the mountains up north, then inland to Verona and its cuisine reflects that, with each area enjoying its own local specialty.  Along the coast seafood is preferred,… Read more »

Tiny overlooked Mantova (Mantua in English) in Lombardy has gotten a lot of air-time on this humble blog. I’ve written about my three-hour long lunch in a local osteria and talked  about a road trip from Milan to Venice with a stop in the cultured city on the Amateur Traveler’s podcast, but in case you have any doubts let me… Read more »

I’m not a huge fan of Italy’s hotels. I find that far too often they rest on their laurels, safe in the knowledge that Italy will always have tourists who need a room. There’s charm in the ancient buildings, but not in the 1970s interiors. The wifi is dim and in some places, like overcrowded Liguria, the rooms are… Read more »